Journal entry — May 18 & 19 — The Flights Weren’t Bad at All!
We arrived in Kenya at about 7:30 p.m. The first thing I noticed was how dark everything is. It's not that they don't have lights or they're burnt out. It's just lower wattage and/or less of them. It felt weird/strange. All of our bags made it which Luke said was the first time this has happened in four years. Hopefully a sign of things to come. After getting our bags we walked through to where everyone was waiting to pick up whoever they were there to pick up. Literally hundreds of people. Very few white people. When Luke recognized George (our driver) I was immensely relieved.
On the way out of the airport & to our hotel we stopped at what looked like a gas station. It was very crowded. On the left of the building was a Pre Pre Chicken (whatever that is) on the right a Pizza Inn (no affiliation w/ the American version). In the middle was a convenience store. All along the outside were tables where people were eating. It looked like a lot of people on dates and what not. It was very nice outside. We learned that it's actually late summer/fall rather than winter like when Luke usually comes. We got a pizza, two beers, coke, sprite and water.
On the way to the hotel it was very interesting to see Nairobi. Old buildings, old cars, lots of billboards (with little light on them). The hotel is about what I expected. It's kind of dark, old, and strangely laid out. We had to go up some stairs and then down some others to get to our room. There's no bed lamp, no toilet seat, and a small tv that has some American shows. Not bad all in all. I forgot my rain jacket and it's pouring outside. Hopefully it won't rain tomorrow as we're going to play golf & I forgot my golf balls too.
Journal entry — May 20
Golf day! We got up this morning about 7:05 a.m. Took a semi warm shower and put on the golf clothes – what I had on yesterday plus a polo. Driving around in the morning was amazing. Everyone moving around getting to work by any way possible. The bikes they were using would've been tossed in the trash 20 years ago in the states. The public busses were so packed I don't know how they were breathing.
The clouds above look ominous. After exchanging some money at the Barclays bank (an ordeal that shouldn't have been difficult), we arrive at the Windsor Golf and Country Club about 9:15. I bought some balls and rented clubs and when we got outside I realized we had caddies. I've never played w/ a caddie and I was in for a real treat. My aunt said it was how golf was meant to be played.
It started off a great round, I bombed my first drive, on in two but three putted for a bogey. My first par didn't come until #7. It rained on us for about five holes. I'm meant to battle rain on the golf course. I settled down on the bag and played really well except for two holes.
Had a couple of beers at the turn which helped. I told George to hit one on hole 8 I think and he bombed one down the middle on his first ever swing of a golf club. He's ruined for life! We had a nice lunch @ the clubhouse. Steak sandwich for me (a la Fletch) fish sticks for Luke. Came back to the hotel for a nap and shower and now we're going to eat dinner at Carnivore.
Carnivore was great. It was all lacquered bamboo and reminded me of a Havana bar. Guns & Roses played in the background coming from a disco attached next door. While Luke was smoking the power to the whole place went out. I was scared for about 20 seconds and then it came back on. The food was amazing. We had 5 different types of meats. The most exotic was ostrich meatballs. The other meats were pretty traditional. It was like a Brazilian steak house we have in Atlanta. We drove back through the city and George pointed out various places but we decided it would be better to do it during the day. Luke did see a Hooters and he's pumped about maybe going by there.
Journal entry — May 21
We got up this morning after being well rested. Had breakfast at the hotel restaurant and it was pretty good. While the chef made me a Spanish omelet I ate African cornflakes w/ no sugar and some fruit plus a half cup of coffee. We packed up as this was our last day here and George arrived about 9:30. He took us on a well guided city tour of Nairobi.
We saw all of the government buildings including where the American embassy was that got bombed. We also got to see Kenya from high above at a large amphitheater they have there. George asked me if this was what it felt like to be in a plane as he'd never experienced it. I said it was similar.
As we were going through Nairobi I saw a sign for the hotel that Fletch is staying in in the book I took to read here. I had to see it. I found out it was the oldest hotel in Nairobi.
We ended our tour at the Kenya National Museum. It was nice but pale compared to any museum of significance in the states. Some of the most important fossils in the history of the world weren't even well lit.
After the museum we started our journey to Narok. It takes a while to get there (2 hours) on uneven and sometimes unpaved roads. This is where the vacation ends & journey begins. While the country is beautiful the people are poor (I almost wrote "like 3rd world").
Narok is mainly concrete buildings most no higher than 1 story. They are crammed so close together it's a wonder they can breathe. It amazes me every time I turn around how many people are actually walking around. Old cars and motorcycles abound. The streets are the worst I've ever seen. No pavement and there are solid pot holes in the hard packed dirt. Very little gravel.
We arrive at Penny and Dolly's and I immediately felt safe. They live in a little compound w/ three houses attached together. There is a large wall w/ a gate and broken glass on top of the wall to keep intruders out.
They have a cute dog named Valentine and some chickens & turkeys. Luke said this was a different place than they lived the previous year. I heard Penny explaining to someone over the phone that this place is "darker" and I assumed she mostly meant as far as light goes. I was wrong. Witch craft is common practice in this little neighborhood and she informs us that this compound is cursed. I started to get a little worried. Whether I believe in it or not makes no bearing on the fact that I have nowhere to go if something were to happen. I slept ok enough. I had my first nightmare I've had since I can remember (could be the malaria medicine) and wild dogs were going on all night. Luke had it worse off than I did as they were closer to his window. I prayed a while before going to bed.
Journal entry — May 22
What a day! I don't remember where to begin. We got up this morning after sleeping semi-well. Penny and Dolly made banana pancakes that were so good. George dropped us off in the small town of Narok and went back to help Penny and Dolly run some errands. We would later meet them for lunch. Luke really knows this town well. All of the people he's met over the years are happy to see him and he really looks like he's in his element. I'm glad to know him.
We run around looking for various souvenirs and end up at Simon's. Luke has told me about this man before. He's a preacher/bartender of all things. (Click here to see a caricature I drew of him in an old blog post.) He saw us coming and when we went in he already had two Tusker's and an appetizer (fried won tons) set at a table for us. We spoke with him a while and I really enjoyed the atmosphere except that we were the only people there. No one from Narok can afford it and tourism is really down. We hurried to meet the others for lunch at George's hotel. I had fried chicken w/ no breading, roasted potatoes, and their version of collard greens. It was a good lunch. It took about 30-45 minutes to get served which would be rare in the states. Again, we were the only people in the restaurant. We exchanged some money then went and picked up James so we could get our meat for supper - goat.
The butcher was an experience. The meat - killed today - hangs in a window for all to see. The butcher cuts off your piece and weighs it w/ an old fashioned scale by trading the different weights on the other end. As Luke was taking pictures the butcher refused to get in them.
When we were in the car George asked me if I could help him decipher the lyrics to a song he liked to play. I didn't know who it was but it was a Crystal Gayle song. It amazes me that he has no way of finding these lyrics other than by listening to a tape. Being Kenyan, it's harder for him to understand. He'd been listening for years w/o knowing and it was awesome to see his face when I would tell him the words. After I asked him to play and he has a lot of talent and a great voice. He likes gospel and country but sings with an African accent. I drew him singing.
The goat was good enough - a little tough as you might expect. After we ate Tabuli, the Maasai singing w/ them they call Mama, tried to show us a trick with twine that none of us could learn. Luke and I sat up talking and looking at the stars. I could see the Southern Cross which is only seen in the southern hemisphere.
Journal entry — May 23 · Olmakenyu
Happy birthday Bert! This morning after a French toast breakfast the four guys set out for Olmakenyu. It is about a 1.5 hour trip through some beautiful country. It climbs up through large hills and valleys to some very green landscapes. Olmakenyu is where a large clinic was donated and built. From that clinic a town of small tin shacks was built around it. We dropped off some water and needed to see if some new mattresses would fit the bunks where we're to stay. (I may camp in a tent though.) We hung out at the clinic for a while and the natives showed us around. George and James went looking for some charcoal for when the rest of the group arrives and we need to cook for everyone. They made arrangements to pick some up on our way out of town. A couple of people wanted to hitch a ride back with us.
About a mile down the road is where we stopped to pick up the charcoal.
Beside us men were digging a drainage ditch. A government worker stopped by on a motorcycle and checked on the progress of the ditch.
Luke got George to ask if George could take Luke for a ride on the bike. Amazingly he said yes. Off they went. Luke came back driving it. We loaded the charcoal and Luke wanted to drive the van. George let him. We got to a certain point and they switched because a police checkpoint was coming up.
As it started to get dark about 7:00, Luke wanted to visit a couple of friends of his named Sam and John. They make the beaded necklaces that he always brings back. My first night in Narok I would've been hesitant to even go but I get more and more comfortable by the hour. Plus George always accompanies us (at night anyway) and that helps. They had already left their shop when we got there so after going back and forth on the phone John came to meet us so we could find Sam. Sam was working at his other business, a hotel (restaurant). They both joined us in the van and we drove to their house over very rough roads and through black night. Little storefronts dotted the back streets of Narok as we went through. It seemed like they lived far away but I would later find out that it was close to the city, just not easy to get to.
We went into John's house first and it consisted of a living room about 8' x 10' and a door that led to other areas of his small home. I'm guessing a small kitchen and one or two smaller bedrooms. His wife, sister-in-law, two sons, and Sam's son were sitting in there with a lantern in the middle of the room which was the only light. Even though it was the poorest house I've ever been in, it was very clean and quaint. The kids were adorable and the women offered tea but Luke respectfully declined. I would've liked to spend the night there to see what it is they do for entertainment but we had to go. John said the boys would probably do some stories and then go to bed. I assumed the adults would stay up talking, reading, and listening to music. Sam's house was a little bigger (not much) but quite the same and his wife was very nice as well. This was my favorite experience so far.
Journal entry — May 25
Happy Birthday Brooke and Janna Rae! Yesterday we spent the day packing up so we would leave Narok for good. We got an early start so George, while picking up the group from Nairobi, could see his ailing daughter.
When we arrived at Olmakenyu we unloaded and set up tents so that some of us could sleep outside. The rain I fight kept us from doing so. It was a short day as the generator wasn't working, the rain and darkness came early. We went to bed at around 7 which would be 12 p.m. State time. The time adjustment hasn't affected me in the slightest. Because of the malaria meds I have been having strange dreams though.
As we were coming up to Olmakenyu we stopped to pick up two guards to stay with us while we're here. I have the feeling they think they're better than other Kenyans and have a general disdain for them also, if the chips were down I don't feel like they'd be much help to us. One in particular never seems to get enough money from the mission for food and what not although he volunteered to come as he knew he would be treated better than where he was.
I spent about 45 minutes trying to draw the wonderful landscape up here to no avail. 5 children watched me from the other side of a fence as I did so.
I got up early this morning and just went and shot some pictures. They'll turn out better anyway. Today we just dried out the tents and got the bunks ready, in case it rains again. We are waiting for the others to arrive this afternoon. While it will be fun to have other people here, the greedy side of me doesn't want to give up what it feels like I have to myself.
Journal entry — May 27
Yesterday was the first day of actual mission work. The group arrived safely but a little later than expected the night before. Our van that had been carting us all over Kenya the week before broke down on them - ha! We were the ones that put it through its paces. They tied the drive shaft up with twine until they could find a welder. I wasn't at all sure about what I'd be doing and the first part of the morning (7-8a) was just standing around. Sheila asked if I'd like to work with the dental team and I said yes. At that point I think I would've burnt manure (I was pretty bored). She showed me how to organize the various tools for extracting teeth. There was bleach and another stronger solution to soak them in to sterilize after use. So I got to where I had a system and could get the blood off quickly so they could soak the other 10-20 minutes and out to the dentists. The scariest part to me was unloading the used syringes of their needles and glass vials. I would rather not have to do that.
One kid was screaming and writhing so bad I had to put my body weight on his legs and I rubbed his stomach and chest to comfort him (to no avail). Dr. Williams is good and quick though and he was able to get his tooth out without me knowing. I was so glad I was able to help them and I went over to the kid and tried to make him feel better. These people are inherently tough and brave. They sit there and would watch their friends get poked w/ needles (w/ no numbing beforehand like Americans) and their teeth pulled and then hop in the chair ready to have it done to them. Only a couple gave us fits. By the end of the day I extracted two teeth myself and the patients (two boys) didn't even cry. I was pretty proud. We worked a long day but everyone was seen to and all in all it was very satisfying.
Today we started the morning out by hiking up the mountain to the schools of Olmakenyu. This was one of my favorite parts so far. (I feel like I keep writing that.) It rained last night and going up the muddy hill, slipping the whole way, gave me a little taste of what these kids go through just to get to school.
While some of the younger members of our group kicked the soccer ball w/ the little kids the teachers surrounded me with tons of questions about the US. I answered as truthfully and as best I could even when they wanted to know what I felt about their Kenyan brother - Obama. They were amazed that we owned our own land.
The kids did some presentations for us and other teachers came to close and requested more from KMO. They are very poor and while KMO is trying to make them self sustainable I don't feel like they think they have the needs to do it on their own.
The second part of today was back to dental work. I was an assistant for most of the day and pulled three more teeth and assisted on two surgical extractions and two fillings. It was fun. The worst part was packing up after it all because tomorrow is a travel day and will start the whole process over w/ worse conditions where we're going. I'm excited to travel somewhere new and am looking forward to getting back to work. Tonight the Olmakenyans had a presentation for us where they gave us gifts and KMO provided them with gifts. They sang Christian African choruses while we were doing the gift exchange and it was beautiful. Brad (the pastor who started it all) wanted new people to get up and speak and I let them know how thankful I was for the opportunity to come and help support their needs.
Journal entry — May 29
Yesterday was complete chaos. It didn't feel like it really going through it but from sunrise to sunset looking back it was one of those days that just takes its toll. We had to move from Olmakenyu to Sakutiek. Everything had to be packed up, we had to travel back through Narok (where we sat for a couple or more hours), and then travel on roads that honestly I can't believe could ever be traveled on and we had 2 large box trucks, three Safari vans, and a land rover w/ a packed trailer.
We were stuck for two hours while we barely moved and the natives dug out the sides of the road to put dry dirt under the wheels of the vehicles. Each one would move about 10 yards and then the process would start again. By the time we arrived in the village where we needed to set up, no one knew what we were supposed to do and of course it started raining. And still everything had to be unpacked. Everyone was getting irritable and Sheila had everyone gather around to have a short prayer session to ask God to guide us through the difficult times and for us to remember why we're here and what needs to be done.
For some reason, all I could think about was no matter how bad a time we were having we were still better off than the people in the village just outside our doors. We had light, the roof wasn't leaking, and we have plenty of food. We slept on concrete w/ 1" mattresses in a large area w/ small dividers (7 men next to each other). I put cotton in my ears and slept as good as I have since leaving Nairobi.
This morning we set up the dental area and the flow is much better than Olmakenyu. There's a lot more room to move around. I cleaned three people's teeth - one assisted only by a 16 year old girl, and one Luke and I split half a woman's mouth up. That was really great fun. It felt like M.A.S.H. as we were cracking jokes and stuff because she couldn't understand us. At one point I asked her how she was doing and she said "so tired." It took us longer than it should've.
Journal entry — May 31
Yesterday turned out to be one of the best days here for a couple of reasons. Luke and I didn't get to show the Jesus film early on like we thought we might, our days have been so packed. But last night we did. He set the screen (sheet) up on an old soccer field. The rain subsided finally and the stars and moon were just unbelievable. Once we got the movie going people just started showing up. When it was all said and done we estimated about 300 people gathered around to watch. The kids sat down up front but most of the adults stood around the back. These people are so poor. A Kenyan told me today that they may see something like that every 1-3 years. It really makes me think about all the crap we have in the States.
During the middle of the movie, we left so we could help out with the Tembayaniasm (sp? walk to Ammeus). We came in w/ flashlights singing a couple of verses of a song something like "Jesus, Jesus, you are all your spirit, let me show you how I feel." I'm not sure but it was melodic and powerful, especially since the "pilgrims" didn't know we would be there. Once we finished they sang (and danced) their chorus' and they were really powerful. I think if we had an ounce of their ability to praise God it would be so much easier to walk w/ Christ. At times I was ready for it to be done but it was an incredible thing to be a part of. We went back to the film as it was wrapping up and while we were stowing the equipment the little kids would stand in front of the projector so the light hit their bodies. Eventually (as we always do) we had to tell them to get back away. I'm getting tired of that but if you don't they end up just clogging up the process. It's so hard to deal with.
This morning Jerry got me up at 5 a.m. to see the stars. Luke & others were already out there. It was everything he (Luke) said it was. We saw the Milky Way, shooting stars, the space station, moving satellites, and the most amount of stars I've ever seen. The moon wasn't present like the night before either which was drowning out a lot of what's visible.
Today we had a small church service where the pilgrims did their chorus' again, we worked half the day, and they presented us w/ gifts before we left. We then had a long day of travel to Lake Nakuru. Tomorrow we go on safari and I'm excited.
Journal entry — June 2
Yesterday after getting up we ate a small breakfast and went immediately to the Lake Nakuru Safari Park. I didn't know it at the time but this was the lake that Redford flew over in Out of Africa. I want to see the movie now. I heard that Dr. Williams had only seen one rhino in the 8 years he's been here and that was the first year. We saw around 15 of them - and w/ their babies too. It's cool to see animals like that in their natural habitat even if it is inside a game park. We also saw many buffalos, monkeys, baboons, and the biggest lioness I've ever seen. Not that I've seen any. But it was so up close that it was unbelievable. I got plenty of pictures of it. We also saw a ton of flamingos and the views from the cliffs above the lake were incredible.
After lunch we traveled north and crossed the equator 3 or 4 times on the windy road to Kuki Gallmann's ranch. I can't describe the ranch. It's rustic but also luxurious compared to what I've become used to. This area is affected by the drought too and while I would like them to get some rain, I'm glad to be without it for a while. We finally got to sit around a fire (the fire pit is huge and awesome in how it's laid out), share experiences from our trip (I spoke out too even though I have a hard time w/ it), and listened to George play and sing music. It was really beautiful to hear him. He has an amazing voice and can pick so well. I wanted so bad to ask him to play the song that I had helped him w/ the words but kept my mouth shut. He dedicated that song to me at the end. I was proud. He also sang his testimony song about God calling to Adam after he had sinned. He said that 16 years ago he realized that God had been calling to him during that song and became born again. It was a great time.
Journal entry — June 8
I'm exhausted, sad, elated, and I really miss home and everyone there. I'm still not quite ready to go back. I'm on the plane coming back from Amsterdam and I haven't written in days - 6 to be precise. I wish I hadn't dropped the habit I was getting into but I'll try now to recollect as much as possible.
Kuki spoke to us on my second to last night there. She had an unbelievable story about what got her to Africa and now I'd like to read her book. I didn't know this but someone in our group, Pam, contacted her because of her reverence for Kuki and the rest is history.
The next morning we got up and drove all over her ranch and she has some of the best views I'd seen the whole time in Africa and it's her private property! We didn't see many animals but I think that's why the group decided to stop by Nakuru which was a great decision. We also got to see some of the cottages she has to host people and they were first rate. It was cool to finally see some style given to Africa because everywhere we came from was really poor.
After the ride we immediately had to pack and drive around 4 hours to get back to Nairobi for my last night in Africa. We got to go to the Hooters Kenya which was really funny. I don't think Hooters translates to what it is to us. The corruption is so bad in Nairobi (and probably all of Africa). We had to bribe police officers three times (twice this stint in Nairobi) because George had a couple of licensing things that had expired. We gave him money for it but I could tell he was embarrassed at his country and the police. We made it out safe and sound with lots of pictures and stories. Amsterdam is a whole other one I'll write about later.